iPhone 17 Pro Max Housing Replacement

A housing replacement is necessary when the frame is severely bent, cracked, or warped in a way that breaches water seals and prevents the glass panels from seating flush. Because the chassis serves as the structural foundation for the entire device, this repair requires a complete teardown and transfer of every internal module into the new enclosure. Expect a demanding, high-precision repair that requires strict screw organization, gentle flex cable handling, and antistatic precautions.

1. 1

   Power Off and Remove Exterior Screws

   • Discharge the battery below 25% to minimize thermal hazards in case of accidental puncture, then power off the phone.
   • Use a P2 pentalobe screwdriver to remove the two screws situated on either side of the USB-C charging port.
2. 2

   Remove the Back Glass Panel

   • Apply moderate heat (approximately 70°C to 80°C) to the perimeter of the rear panel to soften the factory adhesive.
   • Attach a suction cup, gently lift to create a small seam, and slice the adhesive with a plastic pick, taking care not to insert the pick too deeply near the MagSafe and flash flex cable.
3. 3

   Disconnect Battery and Rear Flex

   • Remove the tri-point screws securing the lower connector shield and lift the metal plate away.
   • Use a plastic spudger to disconnect the battery terminal first to cut power, followed by the rear panel flex connector.
4. 4

   Separate the Display Assembly

   • Apply heat to the front glass edges, then use your suction tool and a plastic pick to carefully release the display adhesive.
   • Swing the screen open toward the left, remove the logic board display shield screws, and disconnect the display and sensor cables before setting the panel aside.
5. 5

   Release and Remove the Battery

   • Attach the positive lead of a 9V power source to the battery frame ground contact and the negative lead to the designated adhesive release tab for 60 to 90 seconds.
   • Once the electro-release bond loosens, lift the battery straight out using a plastic pull handle without bending the pouch.
6. 6

   Extract the Camera Assemblies

   • Remove the bracket screws securing the rear camera module, disconnect the ribbon cables from the board, and lift the camera unit out.
   • Unscrew and remove the front-facing TrueDepth Face ID sensor assembly, taking care not to touch the lenses.
7. 7

   Remove the Logic Board

   • Disconnect all remaining coaxial antenna cables, button leads, and sensor connectors attached to the main board.
   • Remove the logic board standoff screws and bracket retainers, then gently tilt and lift the board out of the damaged chassis.
8. 8

   Remove Lower Audio and Charging Components

   • Unscrew and extract the Taptic Engine and lower loudspeaker module.
   • Unfasten the retaining brackets for the USB-C charging port assembly and carefully peel the flex cable and microphone gaskets away from the housing base.
9. 9

   Transfer Buttons and Peripheral Flex Cables

   • Remove the internal brackets for the Action button, volume keys, power button, and Camera Control sensor.
   • Carefully peel these delicate flex ribbons off the old housing walls and install them into their corresponding slots in the new replacement chassis.
10. 10

    Reinstall Main Components into the New Frame

    • Mount the logic board, USB-C port, loudspeaker, and Taptic Engine into the new housing, securing them with their original screws.
    • Seat the camera modules back into place, reconnect all internal flex cables, and secure the battery using fresh adhesive strips.
11. 11

    Bench Test, Seal, and Close the Enclosure

    • Temporarily connect the display and back panel to boot the device and test touch, charging, cameras, and buttons.
    • Once verified, apply new pre-cut perimeter adhesive gaskets to the frame, press the front and rear panels into place evenly, and reinstall the bottom pentalobe screws.

Device