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Samsung Galaxy S25 Plus Housing Replacement

Difficult2–3 h9 steps

A severely bent or heavily scratched frame can compromise the structural integrity and water resistance of your Samsung Galaxy S25 Plus. Replacing the housing involves transferring every internal component into a brand new chassis. This is a complex procedure that requires patience, but the redesigned battery pull tabs and modular layout make it highly achievable for careful technicians.

Required Tools

  • Heat gun or hot plate
  • Suction cup or heavy-duty opening tool
  • Plastic picks and spudgers
  • Phillips #00 screwdriver
  • Tweezers (ESD safe)
  • Isopropyl alcohol (high concentration)
  • Replacement pre-cut adhesive for the back cover
  • Anti-static wrist strap and mat

Step by step

  1. 1

    Step 1: Heat and Remove the Back Glass

    Apply heat to the edges of the back glass to soften the waterproof adhesive.

    Use a suction cup to lift the panel slightly, insert a plastic pick, and carefully slice around the perimeter to remove the cover.

  2. 2

    Step 2: Unscrew the Internal Shields

    The Galaxy S25 Plus features 21 Phillips screws securing the internal plastic shields and the Qi wireless charging coil.

    Remove all screws and keep them organized on a magnetic mat so you do not lose them.

  3. 3

    Step 3: Disconnect the Battery and Coil

    Gently pry up the wireless charging coil and NFC antenna assembly.

    Immediately disconnect the battery flex cable from the motherboard using a plastic spudger to ensure the device is completely powered down.

  4. 4

    Step 4: Remove the Battery

    Locate the redesigned adhesive pull pouch securing the battery to the frame.

    Pull the tab firmly but slowly to release the battery from the chassis without puncturing the cell.

  5. 5

    Step 5: Extract the Motherboard and Cameras

    Disconnect all visible flex cables, including the display, sub-board, and camera connectors.

    Carefully lift the motherboard out of the housing, taking extra care not to damage the large copper vapor chamber underneath.

  6. 6

    Step 6: Remove the Sub-Board and Flex Cables

    Unscrew and extract the bottom sub-board, which houses the USB-C port and primary microphone.

    Carefully peel up any remaining flex cables, vibration motors, and the earpiece speaker using tweezers and a bit of isopropyl alcohol.

  7. 7

    Step 7: Transfer Components to the New Housing

    Begin installing the components into your new housing in the reverse order of removal.

    Start with the small flex cables and vibration motor, followed by the sub-board and the main motherboard.

  8. 8

    Step 8: Reinstall the Battery and Test

    Place the battery into the new frame using fresh adhesive strips if the new housing does not include them.

    Connect the display and battery temporarily to power on the device and test all core functions before sealing.

  9. 9

    Step 9: Seal the Device

    Once testing is successful, power down the phone and install the wireless charging coil and all 21 screws.

    Apply fresh pre-cut adhesive to the edges of the housing and press the back glass firmly into place to restore a tight seal.

Safety

Would you rather leave the repair to the experts?

Disclaimer: repairs are done at your own risk. Devices contain batteries and live components; improper handling can cause injury or fire. For a safe, warrantied repair, contact us.

Frequently asked questions

The Galaxy S25 Plus has an IP68 rating out of the box. While using high-quality pre-cut adhesive helps, it is nearly impossible to guarantee factory-level waterproofing after a repair. Keep the phone away from deep water just to be safe.

Purchasing a frame with pre-installed flex cables and buttons will save you a lot of time. If you buy a bare frame, you must transfer every tiny gasket and button manually.

Apply a few drops of high concentration isopropyl alcohol under the battery to dissolve the adhesive. Wait a minute, then gently pry it up with a flat plastic tool, being careful not to bend the battery.

Double check the main display flex cable connection on the motherboard. A loose connector is the most common reason for a blank screen after a major housing swap.

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