Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra Charging Port Replacement

A malfunctioning charging port on the Galaxy S25 Ultra typically manifests as erratic charging, refusal to register Super Fast Charging, loose cable retention, or failing data connections. Because the USB-C connector, primary microphone, and SIM card reader are factory-soldered to a single daughterboard, resolving these issues requires swapping the complete sub-board assembly. With steady hands and proper tools, this repair is fully achievable without specialized soldering equipment.

1. 1

   Eject the SIM Tray and S-Pen

   • Power down the phone completely, press an ejector pin into the lower hole to remove the SIM tray, and remove the S-Pen.
   • Leaving these components inserted will block the frame and cause severe board or chassis damage during disassembly.
2. 2

   Heat the Perimeter Adhesive

   • Apply controlled heat around the outer perimeter of the back glass using a heat gun set to 80°C (175°F) for two to three minutes.
   • Warming the perimeter softens the factory adhesive without overheating internal battery chemistry.
3. 3

   Slice the Rear Glass Seal

   • Anchor a suction cup to the lower back panel, pull firmly to create a hairline gap, and slip a thin plastic pick into the seam.
   • Glide the pick gently around the edges to release the perimeter adhesive, keeping the pick shallow to avoid damaging the underlying wireless charging coil and antenna ribbons.
4. 4

   Lift and Remove the Back Cover

   • Lift the rear glass slowly away from the titanium chassis once all edges are free.
   • Clean off any residual glass debris and place the cover in a clean area so the camera lenses do not get scratched.
5. 5

   Unfasten the Wireless Charging Shield

   • Remove the Phillips #00 screws securing the upper bracket and wireless charging pad.
   • Carefully lift and tilt the wireless charging coil back to gain clear access to the mainboard connectors.
6. 6

   Disconnect the Battery Immediately

   • Use the flat edge of a non-conductive plastic spudger to unseat the battery connector straight up from the motherboard.
   • Cutting power at this stage prevents accidental short circuits while working with metal brackets and screws.
7. 7

   Remove the Lower Loudspeaker Assembly

   • Take out the Phillips #00 screws anchoring the bottom loudspeaker module that covers the charging port sub-board.
   • Pry the speaker box up with a spudger and set it aside.
8. 8

   Unplug Interconnect Cables and Antennas

   • Use a plastic spudger to gently pop off the display and motherboard interconnect flex connectors seated on the daughterboard.
   • Disconnect the coaxial antenna cables by lifting straight up from their snap terminals with precision tweezers.
9. 9

   Extract the Faulty Daughterboard

   • Remove the retaining screw anchoring the daughterboard to the bottom chassis.
   • Gently lever the board upward from the inner edge and slide the USB-C socket out of the chassis cutout, taking care not to lose or pinch the red rubber water-resistant gasket around the port.
10. 10

    Seat the Replacement Board

    • Guide the new daughterboard into position, ensuring the USB-C port and its rubber gasket seat cleanly into the frame opening.
    • Reinstall the single chassis retaining screw snugly to keep the board stable.
11. 11

    Reconnect Cables and Perform a Bench Test

    • Reattach the coaxial antennas and main interconnect ribbons, followed by the battery connector and speaker assembly.
    • Power on the phone and plug in a charger to verify Super Fast Charging status and data connectivity before sealing the unit.
12. 12

    Apply Fresh Adhesive and Reseal

    • Strip away all old adhesive residue from the frame and back glass with isopropyl alcohol.
    • Lay down a fresh pre-cut adhesive gasket, align the rear glass precisely over the frame, and apply firm, even perimeter pressure to secure the housing.