Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra Charging Port Replacement

Required Tools

• Heat gun or heating pad
• Suction handle
• Plastic opening picks
• Nylon spudger / plastic pry tool
• Precision Phillips #00 screwdriver
• SIM ejector pin
• Curved precision tweezers
• Isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and lint-free wipes
• Replacement OEM Galaxy S25 Ultra daughterboard
• Pre-cut replacement rear glass adhesive gasket

Step by step

1. 1

   Step 1: Eject the SIM Tray and S-Pen

   Power down the phone completely, press an ejector pin into the lower hole to remove the SIM tray, and remove the S-Pen.

   Leaving these components inserted will block the frame and cause severe board or chassis damage during disassembly.

2. 2

   Step 2: Heat the Perimeter Adhesive

   Apply controlled heat around the outer perimeter of the back glass using a heat gun set to 80°C (175°F) for two to three minutes.

   Warming the perimeter softens the factory adhesive without overheating internal battery chemistry.

3. 3

   Step 3: Slice the Rear Glass Seal

   Anchor a suction cup to the lower back panel, pull firmly to create a hairline gap, and slip a thin plastic pick into the seam.

   Glide the pick gently around the edges to release the perimeter adhesive, keeping the pick shallow to avoid damaging the underlying wireless charging coil and antenna ribbons.

4. 4

   Step 4: Lift and Remove the Back Cover

   Lift the rear glass slowly away from the titanium chassis once all edges are free.

   Clean off any residual glass debris and place the cover in a clean area so the camera lenses do not get scratched.

5. 5

   Step 5: Unfasten the Wireless Charging Shield

   Remove the Phillips #00 screws securing the upper bracket and wireless charging pad.

   Carefully lift and tilt the wireless charging coil back to gain clear access to the mainboard connectors.

6. 6

   Step 6: Disconnect the Battery Immediately

   Use the flat edge of a non-conductive plastic spudger to unseat the battery connector straight up from the motherboard.

   Cutting power at this stage prevents accidental short circuits while working with metal brackets and screws.

7. 7

   Step 7: Remove the Lower Loudspeaker Assembly

   Take out the Phillips #00 screws anchoring the bottom loudspeaker module that covers the charging port sub-board.

   Pry the speaker box up with a spudger and set it aside.

8. 8

   Step 8: Unplug Interconnect Cables and Antennas

   Use a plastic spudger to gently pop off the display and motherboard interconnect flex connectors seated on the daughterboard.

   Disconnect the coaxial antenna cables by lifting straight up from their snap terminals with precision tweezers.

9. 9

   Step 9: Extract the Faulty Daughterboard

   Remove the retaining screw anchoring the daughterboard to the bottom chassis.

   Gently lever the board upward from the inner edge and slide the USB-C socket out of the chassis cutout, taking care not to lose or pinch the red rubber water-resistant gasket around the port.

10. 10

    Step 10: Seat the Replacement Board

    Guide the new daughterboard into position, ensuring the USB-C port and its rubber gasket seat cleanly into the frame opening.

    Reinstall the single chassis retaining screw snugly to keep the board stable.

11. 11

    Step 11: Reconnect Cables and Perform a Bench Test

    Reattach the coaxial antennas and main interconnect ribbons, followed by the battery connector and speaker assembly.

    Power on the phone and plug in a charger to verify Super Fast Charging status and data connectivity before sealing the unit.

12. 12

    Step 12: Apply Fresh Adhesive and Reseal

    Strip away all old adhesive residue from the frame and back glass with isopropyl alcohol.

    Lay down a fresh pre-cut adhesive gasket, align the rear glass precisely over the frame, and apply firm, even perimeter pressure to secure the housing.

Frequently asked questions